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HK Wine Blog Instagram

HK Wine Blog Instagram !!! – http://instagram.com/hk_wineblog

HK Wine Blog Instagram將不會發佈網站及Facebook 的內容,而只會即時記錄香港所有Wine Tasting及葡萄酒筆記 – 簡單一點,以彩色或黑白圖片交代葡萄酒”值得購買”還是”可以避免”!
同時Instagram 亦會把內容發佈到HK Wine Blog Facebook Page,所以Facebook Page 可說是最綜合的Hong Kong Wine Blog!

Follow us – http://instagram.com/hk_wineblog

Homepage: http://hkwineblog.net/
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/hkwineblog
Twitter: https://twitter.com/HKWineBlog

細讀勃艮第(Bourgogne) 葡萄酒 – Marsannay

過了Chablis,從Dijon市中心出發往南一直走,第一站就是Marsannay產區。香港也間中會看到Marsannay的紅酒,售價親近可人,但質素和售價均衡,顏色頗深,和鄰近的Fixin 和Gevrey-Chambertin則多較遜色而且缺乏特色。有趣的是,Marsannay是勃艮第唯一一個村莊AOC釀造三種顏色的葡萄酒 – 紅、白和粉紅。也讓人喜出望外的是Marsannay粉紅酒是當中表現最出色! 雖然香港比較難找,但Marsannay 的粉紅酒產量達到紅酒的一半,以Pinot Noir 葡萄釀造,酒體豐富誘人,帶有許多蜜桃及鵝莓的味道,跟夏日沙律、燒烤肉食甚至泰式食物均是理想配搭,記得不需過份冷藏,最佳享用溫度為12度左右。

Marsannay 可細分為Chenove, Marsannay-la-Cote和Couchey 三個副產區,其中Chenove 的Clos du Roy/ Clos du Roi 最受人推崇,位於Chenove的高地,面積超過24畝,擁有面向東面的峻峭斜坡,屬於Marsannay最優秀的土壤。

Chateau Calon Segur 1986

Calon Segur 一向都是需要耐性等待的波爾多紅酒,1986在80年代還算是可靠的年份(當然比不上82和89),經上26年的樽內陳年的確能把Calon Segur過份強悍的個性柔化,依然保持酒莊和Saint-Estephe產區的特性,擁有許多來自強勁丹寧的煙草、鉛筆、皮革、煙燻的味道,波爾多最瑰麗的氣質始終來自陳年後帶來的和諧,這瓶1986Calon Segur 比許多90年份感覺還年輕。

購買地點: Chateau Calon Segur 1986 (MegaWill Wine – $899/瓶)

細讀勃艮第(Bourgogne) 葡萄酒 – 辨識酒標

由於勃艮第Bourgogne每個地區裏面有許多村莊,勃艮第的酒標比其他新世界或波爾多酒標稍稍複雜。

大部份酒標我們都可以理解到以下資料:
(1) 生產者名稱: 勃艮第酒莊不以”Chateau”而以”Domaine” 和”Maison”稱呼,這些酒莊大部分都以自己種植的葡萄釀酒。但也有很多酒商(Maison)向葡萄農購買葡萄後再釀酒,例如附圖的Joseph Drouhin或葡萄酒店常見的Louis Jadot、Louis Latour等均是大型的布根地酒商。

(2) 地區/村莊名稱: 勃艮第可分Chablis, Cote de Nuits, Cote de Beaune, Cote Chalonnaise, Maconnais 及Beaujolais等大區,裏面還細緻分為大大小小的村莊和農田,整個布根地地區就已經有100個AOC (Appellations d’Origine Contrôlée)。Chambolle-Musigny 屬於Cote de Nuits之中的村莊。

(3) 年份: 勃艮第紅酒大部分均以Pinot Noir 釀造,在更南部分的Beaujolais則會用上Gamay,葡萄品種比較少所以酒標都不會標示葡萄品種。Pinot Noir 是一種種植難度非常高的葡萄,所以年份對布根地葡萄酒亦非常重要。

(4) 酒精濃度: 勃艮第屬於寒冷氣候,葡萄糖分偏低,所以酒精濃度一般在12.5% – 13.5%之間。

(5) 等級及級別: 主分為四級別,最低為Regional, 依次為Village, Premier Cru及Grand Cru。Premier Cru 佔整個勃艮第產量的10.2%,Grand Cru則佔1.4%。

(6) 容量: 酒標顯示為750ml。

圖為位於布根地酒商Joseph Drouhin 的 Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru 2004 紅葡萄酒,100% Pinot Noir釀造。

細讀勃艮第(Bourgogne) 葡萄酒 – Cremant de Bourgogne

要數地理上最接近香檳的氣泡酒肯定是鄰近的勃艮第,Cremant de Bourgogne AOC 由1975年定立,允許使用Pinot Noir、Chardonnay、Gamay、Pinot Gris、、Melon de Bourgogne、Pinot Blanc 和Sacy 葡萄釀造,製造方法和傳統香檳一樣需在樽內作二次發酵。所使用的葡萄必需有30% 的Pinot Noir、Chardonnay作基酒,以事實上大部分酒莊均主要使用這兩種葡萄和Pinot Blanc釀成Cremant de Bourgogne。

整個勃艮第的葡萄均可用作Cremant de Bourgogne AOC 製造氣泡酒,雖說在土壤和地理和香檳非常近似,但其陳年時間大多只貼近法例所規定的9個月樽內發酵加上3個月瓶內陳年,許多香檳則使用比法例要求的15個月陳年要長,Cremant de Bourgogne 在層次和結構上均與香檳有所分別。雖然許多酒莊都有製造Cremant de Bourgogne,因耗費資源及需要專門技術,部份酒莊會把葡萄或葡萄汁交予專門處理氣泡酒的公司作樽內發酵及標籤。Cremant de Bourgogne 更重於果香,酵母所帶來的味道則相對較輕,種植葡萄的土地因屬寒冷氣候,其酸度依然偏高,適合用作餐前酒或配搭魚生。Cremant de Bourgogne最大的好處 – 在於其價錢普遍港幣一百多左右!

Clos des Jacobins 葡萄酒晚宴

Clos des Jacobins 位於Saint-Emilion小鎮。葡萄園僅有8.5畝,曾為教會的產業,後期為 Cordes及Vauthier 家族 所持有,直至1964年被Domaines Cordier收購。Benard Decoster 先生於2004年置入酒莊後,授權給兒子 Thibaut 及妻子 Magali 管理。二人隨即全面翻新酒莊,重組葡萄園,改善釀酒設備,更聘請來自Chateau Angelus 的Hubert de Bouard擔當顧問。Clos des Jacobins葡萄酒大多從香氣上已讓人留下印象,擁有獨特辛辣香料的味道,屬陳年能力高的波爾多右岸精選。

日期: 2015年7月22日 (星期三)
時間: 餐前酒會: 19:00 晚宴: 19:30
地點: 香港銅鑼灣開平道1號Cubus10樓Town餐廳
價錢: 每位HK $750+ 10%服務費
報名方法: 請致電 +852 2568 8708 或電郵至 jacobli@townrestauranthk.com

晚宴酒單:
Clos des Jacobins, Grand Cru classé, Saint-Émilion 2012
Clos des Jacobins, Grand Cru classé, Saint-Émilion 2011
Clos des Jacobins, Grand Cru classé, Saint-Émilion 2010
Clos des Jacobins, Grand Cru classé, Saint-Émilion 2006
Clos des Jacobins, Grand Cru classé, Saint-Émilion 2005
Clos des Jacobins, Grand Cru classé, Saint-Émilion 2003

全港Happy Hour 實地報告 – 中環Lily & Bloom

Lily & Bloom
地區: 中環
地址: 中環蘭桂坊雲咸街33號LKF Tower 5樓及6樓

評分–
環境 (20/25) – 樓上一層Lily 屬酒吧區,樓下的Bloom則主要作餐廳。訂位時表明會選用Wines Around The World(只在星期二及三提供,7PM – 10PM) ,服務員表明安排Bloom而不是Lily,座位寬倘舒適有格調。

酒單選擇 (15/25) –Wines Around The World提供的酒單的確有多達10歡的葡萄酒,可惜有2款未能提供。但選擇也頗充沛且多樣化! 留意有些酒並沒有充份代表當地及葡萄品種的特性。

Happy Hour 折扣(25/25) – 每人$175 有多達10款葡萄酒選擇而且無限量,只要你有酒量的話這價錢絕對是超值!

葡萄酒評價 (15/25) – 大部分酒都屬於基本的餐酒水平甚至比餐廳House Wine更失色。Bernard Magrez Tranquilite Chardonnay 和Maset Vinya Selena Blanco Semi Dulce 均感覺奇怪,有過度人工化的嫌疑。Pear Tree Pinot Gris 及 Wonderwall Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 的質素均比較佳。紅酒則有兩款缺貨未能提供。如果你用欣賞葡萄酒的角度這絕對毫無教育價值,以Happy Hour 目的倒也不錯。

整體評分 (?/100) – 儘管葡萄酒的質素未如人意,以$175能品嚐多款葡萄酒的確毫無投訴的理由。可惜從進入餐廳開始就感覺侍應不斷催谷晚餐,當表明會點些小食而不會點主菜時卻受到侍應冷眼對待並且示意這些酒是一些賣不出去的葡萄酒。而Wines Around The World的酒單也需多次要求才能提供,(第一杯氣泡酒”Serve Blind”直至得到酒單),而且份量越來越少。除非你擁有過人的厚面皮,何不找一間有合格服務的餐廳渡過你的Boring Tuesday/Wednesday?

詳細酒單

wine around the world

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Chablis – Domaine Laroche

還記得剛到步抵達到的並非Laroche酒窖而是其餐廳,原來其酒窖、辦公室和所有釀酒設備和餐廳只是一街之隔。

這家1850年建立的Chablis酒莊並非香港常見的名字,但翻查記錄,Laroche 擁有Blanchot Grand Cru 13.14公頃中35%的土地,除此之外也擁有小部分Bougros 和Les Clos Grand Cru 的葡萄園。Laroche 是擁有Blanchot Grand Cru最大面積的酒莊,也因為對Blanchot 土地的認識,Laroche 釀造了最優秀的Reserve de L’Obedience – 1991年開始釀造,釀出最能代表Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchot 的佳釀。每年6月釀酒師都會從所有Les Blanchot的橡木桶中抽取最優秀的進行混釀,調配出Larcoche 最優秀的出品。

風格
Laroche 的Petit Chablis 及Chablis 均全使用不鋼桶發酵,而Premier Cru 以上的均會使用20-30% 橡木桶,其餘則使用不鋼桶發酵。大多橡木桶均只會輕度烘烤以免蓋過葡萄本身的特質。這次到Laroche 從基本的Saint Martin 嚐到Les Clos,Laroche 的風格酒體頗為豐富,有許多酵母帶來的後期味道加強葡萄酒的層次,就算是價錢最親民的Saint Martin也非常完整,而到最後最為出眾的是Laroche Blanchot Grand Cru 2012,完美、均衡、柔順,擁有啤梨、蜜瓜、白花、礦石及海鹽的味道,餘韻難忘。這甚至比大眾認為最優秀的Grand Cru – Les Clos 更為出色。

扭蓋
讓人非常意外的是大部分Domaine Laroche 的Chablis 均用上扭蓋設計,因為受制於5%的軟木塞污染,Laroche 大膽的使用了扭蓋設計,而且這扭蓋設計仍然能讓微量的空氣進入以維持陳年的效果。法國酒莊能勇敢的使用扭蓋,實屬難得。

酒店餐廳
位於Laroche Chablis酒莊一街之隔就是Laroche 的餐廳及酒店 – 餐廳由一位旅居法國的日本大廚主理傳統的法國菜,酒店則只設數個客房,不過若有機會到Chablis ,不妨聯絡Domaine Laroche 親身感受Chablis 和Chardonnay 的魅力!

laroche 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*酒莊依然保存了歷史遺留的葡萄榨取器

Domaine Laroche Saint Martin 2013
有許多火石、礦物及檸檬的味道,酒體豐富,雖沒有經橡木桶沉浸卻因為8個月與酵母成熟給予充份的烘烤味道,結構完整。

Domaine Laroche Les Vaudevey 2012
Les Vaudevey屬Chablis 偏冷的Premieur Cru,酒體偏重,有許多酵母、杏仁、礦物和白花香氣,酸度頗高,能再陳年3-5年。

Domaine Laroche Les Fouchaumes 2012
來自樹齡較高的葡萄,擁有花香、堅果及啤梨味道,與Les Vaudevey有點相似。擁有啤梨、蜜瓜、白花、礦石及海鹽的味道,餘韻難忘。

Domaine Laroche Blanchot 2012
整個旅程最優秀的Chablis! 整體完整、均衡及柔順,從香氣已能界定這是非一般的Chablis! 儲存條件好的環境下陳年5-8年該有更大潛力!

Domaine Laroche Les Clos 2011
擁有蜜瓜、啤梨及成熟熱帶水果的味道,中上的酒體及均衡的酸度,屬中上的質素但欠缺令人驚喜的感覺。或許我還留戀Blanchot的餘韻…?

laroche 1
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