Valpolicella – 尋找Amarone之外的驚喜

了解法國勃艮第的同時,下星期將會開展至意大利,這倘旅程並非意大利最熟悉的3B – Barolo、Barbaresco及Brunello ,而是一樣的珍貴,售價絕不比前者低的Amarone della Valpolicella,親身前往意大利東北部Valpolicella,以風乾葡萄方式釀造的Amarone della Valpolicella 往往別樹一格,風格獨特,在世界其他角落也找不到代替品。

除了Amarone,還有什麼? 下星期開始 - “Valpolicella – 尋找Amarone之外的驚喜”

 

(1) 意大利四大著名紅酒產區- Amarone della Valpolicella

(2) 認識意大利Valpolicella 葡萄

(3) 2015年最難忘的酒莊之旅 – Zyme

(4) 意大利Valpolicella 酒莊 – Tedeschi

 

 

Mischief & Mayhem

並非一個耳熟能詳的名字 – Mischief & Mayhem,一個對於歷史悠久古樸的勃艮第來說非常新的酒莊,英國夫婦Michael Ragg及Fiona從酒商開始發掘彼此共同興趣,從倫敦移居勃艮第Aloxe-Corton開展其釀酒事業。雖然大部分的葡萄均向各地葡萄農採購,但品嚐過後無一不肯定其質素,未必撼動人心,但卻價錢相宜而且每款均帶出當地風土條件。

2013 Bougogne Blanc
全部以不銹鋼桶發酵兼混入10% 來自1er Cru的葡萄,注重 Chardonnay 帶來的檸檬和礦物氣息,有足夠的酸度維持整個口腔感覺,若那其他酒莊的Bougogne Blanc比較這肯定達到75分。

2013 Puligny Montrachet
約12個月木桶沉浸,比Bougogne Blanc豐富了果香而且更添上了許多成熟果香、烤木桶和香草的味道,酒體稍嫌不足影響餘韻,或需要2-3年成熟期或稍為高的溫度享用。

2012 Meursault Les Genevrieres
雖然是2012但屬整個晚上表現得最全面的葡萄酒,直接帶出了Meursault圓滑優雅且不失酒體的特色,擁有花香、木瓜、牛油和榛子的味道,如果能與燒雞或海鮮配合會更完美!

2012 Corton Charlemagne
出色! 擁有蜜瓜、牛油和杏仁的味道,雖然依然收歛但顯出Grand Cru 的氣派,餘韻悠長,或需更長時間陳年或醒酒。

2012 Vosne Romanee Les Brulees
Les Brulees是靠近Richebourg 的一塊1er Cru 田,面積只有約4公頃,Mischief & Mayhem每年只有一個橡木桶的產量,市場上極為稀少。除擁有成熟紅果及李子香氣更多了森林及巧克力的味道,結構最為完整壯大,以勃艮第Pinot Noir 來說丹寧頗高,或經10-15年陳年更能突出其內在潛力。

Mischief & Mayhem 的酒標設計偏向現代及新世界風格,背標著名了其釀造理念及方法,有人喜愛這直接的表達,也有人鍾情法國古老的執著,但這勵志的釀造故事會否激發港人釀造自己葡萄酒的目標?

購買地點: Fine+Rare 2832 9986

2013 Bougogne Blanc – GBP69 / 6 瓶
2013 Puligny Montrachet – GBP176 / 6 瓶
2012 Meursault Les Genevrieres – GBP382 / 6 瓶
2012 Corton Charlemagne – GBP419 / 6 瓶
2012 Vosne Romanee Les Brulees – GBP453 / 6 瓶

被遺忘的波爾多五級酒莊

波爾多左岸的列級酒莊多達61個,究竟你花多少時間才可把他們嚐遍? 當中許多售價不菲,要找經適當陳年的更往往過千,當Lynch Bages 和Pontet-Canet的價錢近年由五級酒莊跳升幾級,其他的五級酒莊也可發掘到不少性價比高的紅酒。

Chateau Dauzac
70年代一直都被爭議Chateau Dauzac的質素不符合列級酒莊,但其後經Félix Chatelier投資及於1992年交予André Lurton接手質素有所改善,Chateau Dauzac 均帶著Margaux 的細膩優雅,不屬酒體膨湃的一類,陳年潛力不高,可找2002 – 2007年份均適合現在享用,價錢一般在港幣400多。

Chateau Belgrave
Chateau Belgrave位於Haut Medoc 區,位置僅僅在St Julien之外,直至80年代前質素一直都平平無奇,及後由Michel Rolland擔當顧問後質素有所提升,釀造風格均是柔和平衡。剛試過2000年,顏色依然偏深,香氣不算突出,帶有新鮮黑莓、煙草及叢林的味道,喝過後只想到兩個字 – 和諧,雖然並沒有任何突出的味道,卻感覺非常舒適,也沒有過份捽取丹寧,整個葡萄酒旅程美妙自然。也可能這樣歷年來被酒評家的評分甚低,但這造就一個價簾物美的列級波爾多 – Chateau Belgrave,大部分的售價都是300多元,2000 – 2005均屬識飲期。

Chateau Cantemerle
位於Medoc區南部靠近波爾多市中心,總是旅客出發酒莊旅程的第一站,也是頗受香港歡迎波爾多列級酒莊,價廉而且質素穩健,平穩得期望著Cantemerle在波爾多最佳年份2005和2009該會更為燦爛而有點失望。Cantemerle 陳年的潛力令人喜出望外, 1996年的波爾多往往被95年的鋒芒所蓋過,但Chateau Cantemerle 1996經接近20年陳年後依然屬於適飲期,帶著濃厚乾果、香料、煙燻及煙草的味道,最吸引的是其售價 – 只是約400元。

細讀勃艮第(Bourgogne) 葡萄酒- Chambolle-Musigny

名氣上略略被相鄰,面積較大的Vosne-Romanee和Gevrey-Chambertin 蓋過,但Chambolle-Musigny個性誘人而且獨得,往往是勃良弟愛好者尋寶的地方。大部分均種植Pinot Noir 葡萄樹,只有極少部分種植了Chardonnay。雖然面積上稍比Morey-St-Denis大,但這個小村莊只有不到20個釀造者,卻也盛產其中兩個最受人追捧的頂級園 – Musigny 及Bonnes Mares。Chambolle-Musigny 的紅酒大多是有力量,架構不如Gevrey-Chambertin般強大,但卻比Gevrey-Chambertin更細緻,從香氣往往能突顯Chambolle-Musigny 的特質。

Musigny 和Chambertin 同屬勃良弟裡最頂級的土地,整個10.85畝的特級園中有7成屬於Comte Georges de Vogue 酒莊,可分為三幅土地 – Les Musigny, Les Petit Musigny 及La Combe d’Orveau,Comte Georges de Vogue擁有所有達4.19畝的Les Petit Musigny,而且Comte Georges de Vogue Musigny 成為勃良弟其中一支售價最高的葡萄酒,值得等待25年以上才能釋放他的潛力。

Bonnes Mares 部分的土地其實屬於比鄰的Morey-St-Denis,在Mommessin 持有的Clos de Tart 土地中故這些土地被劃分為Clos de Tart,Bonnes Mares土地比分割得非常細,約15畝的土地被23個酒莊持有,最大的土地持有者Comte Georges de Vogue只有2.7畝地,也由於靠近Morey-St-Denis,他更像是兩者的混合體,但也同需要等到15年以上陳年才會熟成。

除了Musigny和Bonnes Mares 之外,其特級園的Les Amoureuses 也不可忽視,中文的譯音一般譯作愛侶,風格偏向Musigny,其質素亦不遜於兩個頂級園。

細讀勃艮第(Bourgogne) 葡萄酒 – Morey-Saint-Denis

Gevrey-Chambertin 和Vougeot 之間有一個Cote de Nuits 面積最小的村莊 – Morey- St- Denis ,面積雖小但卻是許多勃艮第迷私人珍藏中必不可少的一個產區。137畝當中有40畝屬於4個Grand Cru 法定產區,包括Clos de la Roche、Clos des Lambrays、Clos de Tart 以及最小的Clos St-Denis,全部均只以Pinot Noir 葡萄釀造紅酒,4個之中Clos de Tart比較特別 – 他是由單獨一個酒莊Mommessin持有而成為Monopole (Clos des Lambrays也接近Monopole,但因8.84畝之中有非常小部分屬於Domaine Taupenot-Merme而不符合Monopole標籤條件)。Morey-Saint-Denis 的Grand Cru 水準可靠,均屬於長熟成紅酒,大部分均值得等待10年以上樽內陳年才可以把其潛力釋放。至於風格,Morey- St- Denis 似乎處於最平衡的位置,稍微欠缺Vougeot 的優雅細膩,也沒有Gevrey-Chambertin 的高丹寧和酒體。

Morey-Saint-Denis其中一家著名的酒莊是Domaine Ponsot – Ponsot 的釀酒風格頗獨特,種植葡萄並沒有使用殺蟲劑但他從來不會稱自己為Organic,他會利用月亮和地球的移動卻從不稱自己為Biodynamic,可能”Ponsot”已經是一個代表著優秀的名字。酒莊並沒有使用挑選葡萄的器具,因為所有挑選的工作在採摘葡萄的時候已經完成,壓搾葡萄汁的時候都不會使用到葡萄的支來提取丹寧,而且並不使用全新橡木桶,所有發酵的橡木桶均使用了達十年以上,目的在於釀造集中葡萄果實風味的葡萄酒。也有人認為這些釀酒方法令Domaine Ponsot 在優秀年份質素得以提升,但較弱年份均欠缺陳年條件。值得一提是現任莊主Laurent Ponsot 是一名科技控,2008開始使用了獨特的人造酒塞來避免葡萄酒受TCA感染,但會否影響陳年的潛力則需待更多時間證明。如果找到的話,Ponsot 唯一釀造的白酒Clos des Monts Luisants 以Aligote 和Chardonnay 混合釀造,非常優秀!

 

 

 

Gevrey-chambertin – Domaine Dugat-Py

一大清早參觀這個著名而名聲一直嚮噹噹的酒莊- Domaine Dugat-Py ,Bernard Dugat-Py 的兒子Loic近年接手打理其家族經營的酒莊,一到酒莊的時候Loic 出來迎接,便帶到酒莊後面一片的Gavery-Chambertin 的葡萄園。Domaine Dugat-Py 釀造了4個Grand Cru (Chambertin, Mazin-Chambertin, Mazoyeres-Chambertin及Charmes- Chambertin) 和5個Premieur Cru (Champeaux, Lavaux St-Jacque, Petit Chapelle, Gevrey-chambertin 和白酒Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeots) ,近年來隨積極管理好葡萄園,著力以Organic 及Biodynamic 方式管理之外,提高質素之外,一直以來Domaine Dugat-Py的葡萄酒均有老葡萄樹帶來的風格 – 整個酒莊釀造的葡萄酒平均達65年樹齡,大部分均達到60-70年樹齡,而其Chambertin 更來自達90年的老葡萄樹! Grand Cru 及 Premieur Cru 的葡萄酒均使用全新橡木桶沉浸18至24個月,而村莊酒則會使用一半全新橡木桶及一年橡木桶。由於跟橡木桶製造商Francois Freres 關係密切,其Chambertin由於每年釀造不足夠一個標準橡木桶(228公升)所以Francois Freres均會度身訂造一個只有205公升的橡木桶予Dugat-Py的Chambertin! 也不要小看Chambertin 這酒的售價往往過萬! 就算是其他的Grand Cru 和Premieur Cru 的產量也只有數個橡木桶左右。

經過葡萄園後Loic帶到他們的地下酒窖,珍藏著許多舊年份的Dugat-Py而且看到葡萄園下的礦物! Loic 隨手在酒窖拿了一瓶紅酒,原來是Petit Chapelle 2002 – 酒色偏深,開瓶的時候一直非常封閉,擁有許多黑李子、森林、杉樹、泥土、可可及香草的味道,屬勃良弟偏向強大黑暗的一方! 雖然明顯未達高峰但必感受到其偉大,複雜、丹寧和酒體非常實在,這需要更長時間的陳年或醒酒,再經5-10年陳年會成為頗出色的作品。

雖然Dugat-Py 的葡萄酒售價不低,但Loic表示其最入門的Dugat-py Bourgogne也是性價比非常高的“Weekday Wine”,售價約三百多元卻已帶著Gavery-Chambertin的風格,大家不妨嘗試經外國酒商尋找。

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細讀勃艮第(Bourgogne) 葡萄酒- Gevrey-chambertin

Marsannay和Fixin之後,總要有一個大名字 – Gevrey-chambertin,一個面積更大的產區,當中也包括勃良弟著名及優越的Grand Cru – Chambertin。

Gevrey-chambertin 是一個面積頗大超過達到四百公頃的大區(Marsannay 約三百公頃,Fixin 約一百多公頃) ,當中有9個Grand Cru (佔8.3%)及27個Primeur Cru (佔18.5%),Gand Cru 中Chambertin 及Chambertin Clos de Beze 均屬頂級中的頂級,而Premier Cru 中Les Cazetiers、Les Corbeaux 及Clos St-Jacques 的質素平均水準亦非常高。

Gevrey-chambertin 這產區感覺較樸素,游走於葡萄園的時候首次感覺到像內地的農田(當然環境依然非常整潔!) ,幾乎全部種植Pinot Noir 釀成紅酒,如果要簡單總結這地區Pinot Noir的風格則肯定是酒體豐富、剛強和飽和的紅酒,非常男性化而且擁有長期陳年的潛力。從村莊級至Grand Cru 級別其價錢相差極大,最優秀的酒莊當然要數Armand-Rousseau和Leroy,可並非每個人均負擔得起,而Dugat-Py及Pierre Damoy這兩家酒莊釀造的Gevrey-chambertin質素均非常高,與前兩家頂級酒莊相差不遠,值得注意。

 

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細讀勃艮第(Bourgogne) 葡萄酒 – Fixin

繼Marsannay 之後另一個不起眼但釀造許多價錢實惠紅酒的產區 – Fixin! 103畝村莊級葡萄田之外也有21畝屬於一級農田Premier Cru,位處於Marsannay 及Gevrey-Chambertin之間,地理環境和Gevrey-Chambertin 接近,而土壤則更近似Marsannay。

Pinot Noir 種植範圍廣,大部分均釀成紅酒,僅出產非常少量Chardonnay白酒。 靠近Dijon 市中心的優勢令本土需求熱烈,Fixin的葡萄酒一直不需積極推動出口。

一級農田Premier Cru總共有五片 – Les Arvelets, Clos du Chapitre, Clos de la Perriere, Clos Napoleon, 及Les Hervelets,皆不屬令人熟悉的名字。品嚐過的Fixin不多,綜合經驗均頗為簡樸粗糙(英文會更貼切形容為Rustic)、結構和丹寧頗強,果味較為成熟而且需要5-8年陳年的紅葡萄酒。跟Marsannay 的售價接近,難有太多驚喜,能夠在日常日子稍為彌補Pinot Noir 的渴求…

圖片來源: wakawakawinereviews.com