2014 波爾多期酒 – 還有勇氣下注?

2014 波爾多期酒已到尾聲,酒評家一致認為2014屬2010年後最佳的年份,春天的天氣發展得頗佳,及後8月偏向涼快的氣溫影響了葡萄的熟成,慶幸踏入9月及10月帶來充足的陽光令葡萄成熟得較佳。左岸和右岸比較下,左岸似乎更佳,右岸則受更多降雨的影響,而且因為Merlot 比較早熟,許多酒莊在9月陽光和熱浪前已需要進行採收,也影響了右岸的質素。

雖然質素比2011至2013年好,但是否值得投資於這些需待5年以上才適合享用的葡萄酒? 有些酒評家均認為2014年份適合早年享用,若沒有足夠的陳年潛力,對於購買期酒作投資則肯定是負面因素。而且過往數年波爾多酒莊對期酒的定價明顯過高,現時許多葡萄酒均跌破期酒的開賣價錢。對於2014年的價錢,酒莊解釋需要尊重過往的買家,故不能定得比2011-2013低,預期2014年期酒價錢甚至會稍微偏高一點。

追求質素的消費者偏好過往2005、2009及2010的優秀年份,而價格為先的則會多著眼於2007或2008年份,2011-2013年波爾多酒的市場價格疲弱,酒商的存貨甚多。到了2017後半年,還未適合飲用的14年份波爾多推出市場,2011-2013持續低價格也影響著其價格潛力。

就算你會把這些期酒作個人享受,先付上一筆金錢等待兩年才能拿到實體的葡萄酒,也需實際地以投資角度考量。若期望每年3%增長,6年之後你應得到20%的利潤 – 與2008年接近的質素,除非你能在2014年期酒中找到比現時2008年份波爾多售價低20%的開賣價錢,否則有什麼理由購買2014年期酒呢? (還未計算4年的倉儲成本)

先忘記把葡萄酒作投資,若考慮預早購入2014 波爾多期酒作個人享用,有些質素持續進步的葡萄酒值得信賴,不妨考慮從波爾多各產區購入一款作組合 –

Pauillac : Château Lynch Bages

Saint-Estephe: Château Calon Segur

Margaux: Château Rauzan Segla

Saint-Julien: Château Beychevelle

Pessac-Leognan: Château La Mission Haut Brion

Sauternes: Château Doisy Daene

Saint Emilion: Château Canon

Pomerol: Vieux Château Certan

#以上組合考量其開賣價錢及過往2005,2009,2010及2012的質素,比較其他年份的市場價

RAW Wine Fair London

剛於上月參加了一個非常啟發性的酒展 – RAW Wine Fair

從直接的意思引申而來 – RAW 意指天然而不經人工加工及程序,而這個酒展集合了達200家追求RAW理念的酒莊,他們相信葡萄酒有生命,需要用最天然的方法種植及釀造才能造出真實表達大自然的葡萄酒,不添加人工添加劑,大部分的產量均不多,有點”Artisan”及”Cult” 的味道。

要符合RAW酒展必需符合以下條件 –

  • Organic或Biodynamic認證
  • 葡萄必需人手採摘
  • 使用天然酵母。人工酵母只可用作氣泡酒二次發酵
  • 不可阻止Malolatic Fermentation
  • 二氧化硫的使用量必需低,每公升不可多於70mg

RAW 當中有來自各地的酒莊,除本土英國之外,法國、意大利、澳洲、西班牙及為數不少的東歐國家,整體質素平庸,但找到許多有趣的葡萄酒。例如開始成為潮流的Orange Wine ,這些介乎紅和白之間的酒經過葡萄皮接觸釀成,豐富口味及有丹寧酸澀的感覺。也有許多沒有經過過濾的葡萄酒,雖看來比較渾濁但卻不失其味道。

一直對有機(Organic)及生物動力自然耕種法(Biodynamic) 心存疑問,這些方法固然是好,而且也對大自然的損害更少,長遠對葡萄園發展有利。許多酒商過度濫用這些名詞作為銷售葡萄酒的賣點,但有機(Organic)及生物動力自然耕種法(Biodynamic)對葡萄酒的質素有否直接關係呢?葡萄酒的品質來自葡萄的質素,而且部分人工的處理也能提升酒的質素,只要對身體無害,更多的後天處理也未必是壞事。

RAW Artisan Wine Fair 引起了公眾談及自然和葡萄酒的關係,也更深入探討有機及生物動力自然耕種法對葡萄酒的影響,希望香港也有機會舉辦這些具特別意義的活動。RAW 是一年一度於倫敦的活動,約下年剛好到倫敦也可多加留意 (http://www.rawfair.com/)!

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波爾多2005,2009及2010品評報告

第一次把上星期約倫敦品評的65款波爾多的評分和筆記一次發放! 分數沒設計的太複雜, 只以10分為滿分,我們相信每一位都可以有不一樣的看法和喜好,分數的設定只給予你們參考, 有些表現最難忘和平庸的波爾多區別出來,避免買到一些令人失望的葡萄酒。

表現難忘的葡萄酒-
– Chateau Montrose 2005,2009,2010
– Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 2005, 2010
– Chateau Lascombes 2005,2010
– Chateau La Pointe 2010
– Chateau Coutet 2005
– Chateau La Dominique 2005,2009,2010
– Chateau Petit-Village 2009, 2010

表現平庸的葡萄酒 -
– Les Lions de Suduiraut 2010
– S de Suduiraut 2012
– Chateau Tronquoy-Lalande  2005
– Chateau Phelan-Segur  2009, 2010
– Chevalier de Lascombes  2010
– Chateau Cantemerle  2005

波爾多2005,2009及2010品評報告下載

 

 

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波爾多2005,2009,2010

或許開始對波爾多酒感到厭倦。

2005, 2009和2010, 當大家認為是世紀最佳年份的時候, 他們在2015的表現怎樣?

厭倦的不是因為他們表現不佳,而在於波爾多紅酒所預計得到的力量,香氣和味道, 甚至將來所帶得到的潛力, 任何因素都似在你預計當中。 你可以預計Chateau Montrose 的澎拜酒體, 煙燻和可可的味道(這些都是近乎完美的葡萄酒!),可以了解到Pichon Lalande 優雅的風格,甚至Lafon-Rochet 近年過度捽取的味道你都可以估計得到。

波爾多不死, 但大部分波爾多紅酒和白酒,尤其貴腐酒的適飲期比我們預計應該更長。 10年過後, 所有2005都沒有疲倦狀態, 大部分更適合多陳年5-10年, 你該給予他們更多耐性。

如果你想更多的享受波爾多,更立體的了解到波爾多的魅力,該開始要品嚐Graves/Pessao Leognan的白酒或者Sauternes/ Barsac貴腐酒。這些都是世界其他角落找不到的佳釀, Sauvignon Blanc 跟Semillion 共同帶來的酒體和味道,帶來的木桶,燒烤和拖肥不但難忘,最少令你一再追尋持續下一口甚至下一杯。

整個倫敦2005,2009及2010波爾多葡萄酒品評,都沒有我最後從酒商拿來的Domaine De L’A 2005 更吸引。 列級酒莊像時裝的大品牌,或許像拿著LV手袋一樣是了無新意的炫耀工具。許多人自問了解熟悉葡萄酒,但卻是個以為所有Margaux, Pauillac 也比所有酒好的酒標追隨者。 不花時間探求,就不知道Domaine De L’A 是波爾多著名顧問Stephane Derenoncourt (曾擔任Talbot, Pavie Macquin, Smith Haut Lafitte 數十家的顧問) 購入和親自釀造的葡萄酒,位於鄰近Saint Emilion 旁的Cote de Castillon, 約$300一瓶的價格,就連許多列級酒莊副牌酒也買不到。

如果多一點Domaine De L’A 2005 的驚喜, 誰說喝波爾多會喝到倦?

表現最佳的葡萄酒-
– Chateau Montrose 2005,2009,2010
– Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 2005, 2010
– Chateau Lascombes 2005,2010
– Chateau La Pointe 2010
– Chateau Coutet 2005
– Chateau La Dominique 2005,2009,2010
– Chateau Petit-Village 2009, 2010

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