Clos des Jacobins 葡萄酒晚宴

Clos des Jacobins 位於Saint-Emilion小鎮。葡萄園僅有8.5畝,曾為教會的產業,後期為 Cordes及Vauthier 家族 所持有,直至1964年被Domaines Cordier收購。Benard Decoster 先生於2004年置入酒莊後,授權給兒子 Thibaut 及妻子 Magali 管理。二人隨即全面翻新酒莊,重組葡萄園,改善釀酒設備,更聘請來自Chateau Angelus 的Hubert de Bouard擔當顧問。Clos des Jacobins葡萄酒大多從香氣上已讓人留下印象,擁有獨特辛辣香料的味道,屬陳年能力高的波爾多右岸精選。

日期: 2015年7月22日 (星期三)
時間: 餐前酒會: 19:00 晚宴: 19:30
地點: 香港銅鑼灣開平道1號Cubus10樓Town餐廳
價錢: 每位HK $750+ 10%服務費
報名方法: 請致電 +852 2568 8708 或電郵至 jacobli@townrestauranthk.com

晚宴酒單:
Clos des Jacobins, Grand Cru classé, Saint-Émilion 2012
Clos des Jacobins, Grand Cru classé, Saint-Émilion 2011
Clos des Jacobins, Grand Cru classé, Saint-Émilion 2010
Clos des Jacobins, Grand Cru classé, Saint-Émilion 2006
Clos des Jacobins, Grand Cru classé, Saint-Émilion 2005
Clos des Jacobins, Grand Cru classé, Saint-Émilion 2003

全港Happy Hour 實地報告 – 中環Lily & Bloom

Lily & Bloom
地區: 中環
地址: 中環蘭桂坊雲咸街33號LKF Tower 5樓及6樓

評分–
環境 (20/25) – 樓上一層Lily 屬酒吧區,樓下的Bloom則主要作餐廳。訂位時表明會選用Wines Around The World(只在星期二及三提供,7PM – 10PM) ,服務員表明安排Bloom而不是Lily,座位寬倘舒適有格調。

酒單選擇 (15/25) –Wines Around The World提供的酒單的確有多達10歡的葡萄酒,可惜有2款未能提供。但選擇也頗充沛且多樣化! 留意有些酒並沒有充份代表當地及葡萄品種的特性。

Happy Hour 折扣(25/25) – 每人$175 有多達10款葡萄酒選擇而且無限量,只要你有酒量的話這價錢絕對是超值!

葡萄酒評價 (15/25) – 大部分酒都屬於基本的餐酒水平甚至比餐廳House Wine更失色。Bernard Magrez Tranquilite Chardonnay 和Maset Vinya Selena Blanco Semi Dulce 均感覺奇怪,有過度人工化的嫌疑。Pear Tree Pinot Gris 及 Wonderwall Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 的質素均比較佳。紅酒則有兩款缺貨未能提供。如果你用欣賞葡萄酒的角度這絕對毫無教育價值,以Happy Hour 目的倒也不錯。

整體評分 (?/100) – 儘管葡萄酒的質素未如人意,以$175能品嚐多款葡萄酒的確毫無投訴的理由。可惜從進入餐廳開始就感覺侍應不斷催谷晚餐,當表明會點些小食而不會點主菜時卻受到侍應冷眼對待並且示意這些酒是一些賣不出去的葡萄酒。而Wines Around The World的酒單也需多次要求才能提供,(第一杯氣泡酒”Serve Blind”直至得到酒單),而且份量越來越少。除非你擁有過人的厚面皮,何不找一間有合格服務的餐廳渡過你的Boring Tuesday/Wednesday?

詳細酒單

wine around the world

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Chablis – Domaine Laroche

還記得剛到步抵達到的並非Laroche酒窖而是其餐廳,原來其酒窖、辦公室和所有釀酒設備和餐廳只是一街之隔。

這家1850年建立的Chablis酒莊並非香港常見的名字,但翻查記錄,Laroche 擁有Blanchot Grand Cru 13.14公頃中35%的土地,除此之外也擁有小部分Bougros 和Les Clos Grand Cru 的葡萄園。Laroche 是擁有Blanchot Grand Cru最大面積的酒莊,也因為對Blanchot 土地的認識,Laroche 釀造了最優秀的Reserve de L’Obedience – 1991年開始釀造,釀出最能代表Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchot 的佳釀。每年6月釀酒師都會從所有Les Blanchot的橡木桶中抽取最優秀的進行混釀,調配出Larcoche 最優秀的出品。

風格
Laroche 的Petit Chablis 及Chablis 均全使用不鋼桶發酵,而Premier Cru 以上的均會使用20-30% 橡木桶,其餘則使用不鋼桶發酵。大多橡木桶均只會輕度烘烤以免蓋過葡萄本身的特質。這次到Laroche 從基本的Saint Martin 嚐到Les Clos,Laroche 的風格酒體頗為豐富,有許多酵母帶來的後期味道加強葡萄酒的層次,就算是價錢最親民的Saint Martin也非常完整,而到最後最為出眾的是Laroche Blanchot Grand Cru 2012,完美、均衡、柔順,擁有啤梨、蜜瓜、白花、礦石及海鹽的味道,餘韻難忘。這甚至比大眾認為最優秀的Grand Cru – Les Clos 更為出色。

扭蓋
讓人非常意外的是大部分Domaine Laroche 的Chablis 均用上扭蓋設計,因為受制於5%的軟木塞污染,Laroche 大膽的使用了扭蓋設計,而且這扭蓋設計仍然能讓微量的空氣進入以維持陳年的效果。法國酒莊能勇敢的使用扭蓋,實屬難得。

酒店餐廳
位於Laroche Chablis酒莊一街之隔就是Laroche 的餐廳及酒店 – 餐廳由一位旅居法國的日本大廚主理傳統的法國菜,酒店則只設數個客房,不過若有機會到Chablis ,不妨聯絡Domaine Laroche 親身感受Chablis 和Chardonnay 的魅力!

laroche 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*酒莊依然保存了歷史遺留的葡萄榨取器

Domaine Laroche Saint Martin 2013
有許多火石、礦物及檸檬的味道,酒體豐富,雖沒有經橡木桶沉浸卻因為8個月與酵母成熟給予充份的烘烤味道,結構完整。

Domaine Laroche Les Vaudevey 2012
Les Vaudevey屬Chablis 偏冷的Premieur Cru,酒體偏重,有許多酵母、杏仁、礦物和白花香氣,酸度頗高,能再陳年3-5年。

Domaine Laroche Les Fouchaumes 2012
來自樹齡較高的葡萄,擁有花香、堅果及啤梨味道,與Les Vaudevey有點相似。擁有啤梨、蜜瓜、白花、礦石及海鹽的味道,餘韻難忘。

Domaine Laroche Blanchot 2012
整個旅程最優秀的Chablis! 整體完整、均衡及柔順,從香氣已能界定這是非一般的Chablis! 儲存條件好的環境下陳年5-8年該有更大潛力!

Domaine Laroche Les Clos 2011
擁有蜜瓜、啤梨及成熟熱帶水果的味道,中上的酒體及均衡的酸度,屬中上的質素但欠缺令人驚喜的感覺。或許我還留戀Blanchot的餘韻…?

laroche 1
laroche 3

全港 Happy Hour 實地報告 – 中環Insomnia

Insomnia
地區: 中環
地址: 中環蘭桂坊德己立街38-44號地下

評分
環境 (20/25) –大多座位都頗舒適鬆動(只要找到座位..),而且不會太嘈吵適合聊天,食物質素也高。9點後有Live Band 表演,氣氛完全不一樣。
酒單選擇 (15/25) – 紅白酒各有三款而且風格不一,白酒有Sauvignon Blanc、Chardonnay 及Pinot Grigio。試過三款白酒,Sauvignon Blanc從香氣至味蕾之間全是新世界青草的風格,也擁有白桃和芒果等味道。Chardonnay擁有熱帶水果、蜜瓜及輕微木桶的味道,酒體屬三杯中最重。如果想找些輕盈清新則可選擇Pinot Grigio,唯獨酸度稍欠不足。三款當中Chardonnay 整體比較優勝。
Happy Hour 折扣(25/25) – 晚上9點前半價,一杯葡萄酒折扣後約$50,價錢吸引!
葡萄酒評價 (15/25) – 葡萄酒多屬入門級水平但若計上Happy Hour 半價優惠依然值得推介!
整體評分 (75/100) – 位於蘭桂芳地下,位置方便,有6款葡萄酒供選擇,而且Happy Hour價錢吸引,服務合格。