細讀勃艮第(Bourgogne) 葡萄酒- Gevrey-chambertin

Marsannay和Fixin之後,總要有一個大名字 – Gevrey-chambertin,一個面積更大的產區,當中也包括勃良弟著名及優越的Grand Cru – Chambertin。

Gevrey-chambertin 是一個面積頗大超過達到四百公頃的大區(Marsannay 約三百公頃,Fixin 約一百多公頃) ,當中有9個Grand Cru (佔8.3%)及27個Primeur Cru (佔18.5%),Gand Cru 中Chambertin 及Chambertin Clos de Beze 均屬頂級中的頂級,而Premier Cru 中Les Cazetiers、Les Corbeaux 及Clos St-Jacques 的質素平均水準亦非常高。

Gevrey-chambertin 這產區感覺較樸素,游走於葡萄園的時候首次感覺到像內地的農田(當然環境依然非常整潔!) ,幾乎全部種植Pinot Noir 釀成紅酒,如果要簡單總結這地區Pinot Noir的風格則肯定是酒體豐富、剛強和飽和的紅酒,非常男性化而且擁有長期陳年的潛力。從村莊級至Grand Cru 級別其價錢相差極大,最優秀的酒莊當然要數Armand-Rousseau和Leroy,可並非每個人均負擔得起,而Dugat-Py及Pierre Damoy這兩家酒莊釀造的Gevrey-chambertin質素均非常高,與前兩家頂級酒莊相差不遠,值得注意。

 

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細讀勃艮第(Bourgogne) 葡萄酒 – Fixin

繼Marsannay 之後另一個不起眼但釀造許多價錢實惠紅酒的產區 – Fixin! 103畝村莊級葡萄田之外也有21畝屬於一級農田Premier Cru,位處於Marsannay 及Gevrey-Chambertin之間,地理環境和Gevrey-Chambertin 接近,而土壤則更近似Marsannay。

Pinot Noir 種植範圍廣,大部分均釀成紅酒,僅出產非常少量Chardonnay白酒。 靠近Dijon 市中心的優勢令本土需求熱烈,Fixin的葡萄酒一直不需積極推動出口。

一級農田Premier Cru總共有五片 – Les Arvelets, Clos du Chapitre, Clos de la Perriere, Clos Napoleon, 及Les Hervelets,皆不屬令人熟悉的名字。品嚐過的Fixin不多,綜合經驗均頗為簡樸粗糙(英文會更貼切形容為Rustic)、結構和丹寧頗強,果味較為成熟而且需要5-8年陳年的紅葡萄酒。跟Marsannay 的售價接近,難有太多驚喜,能夠在日常日子稍為彌補Pinot Noir 的渴求…

圖片來源: wakawakawinereviews.com

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細讀勃艮第(Bourgogne) 葡萄酒 – Marsannay

過了Chablis,從Dijon市中心出發往南一直走,第一站就是Marsannay產區。香港也間中會看到Marsannay的紅酒,售價親近可人,但質素和售價均衡,顏色頗深,和鄰近的Fixin 和Gevrey-Chambertin則多較遜色而且缺乏特色。有趣的是,Marsannay是勃艮第唯一一個村莊AOC釀造三種顏色的葡萄酒 – 紅、白和粉紅。也讓人喜出望外的是Marsannay粉紅酒是當中表現最出色! 雖然香港比較難找,但Marsannay 的粉紅酒產量達到紅酒的一半,以Pinot Noir 葡萄釀造,酒體豐富誘人,帶有許多蜜桃及鵝莓的味道,跟夏日沙律、燒烤肉食甚至泰式食物均是理想配搭,記得不需過份冷藏,最佳享用溫度為12度左右。

Marsannay 可細分為Chenove, Marsannay-la-Cote和Couchey 三個副產區,其中Chenove 的Clos du Roy/ Clos du Roi 最受人推崇,位於Chenove的高地,面積超過24畝,擁有面向東面的峻峭斜坡,屬於Marsannay最優秀的土壤。

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Calon Segur 一向都是需要耐性等待的波爾多紅酒,1986在80年代還算是可靠的年份(當然比不上82和89),經上26年的樽內陳年的確能把Calon Segur過份強悍的個性柔化,依然保持酒莊和Saint-Estephe產區的特性,擁有許多來自強勁丹寧的煙草、鉛筆、皮革、煙燻的味道,波爾多最瑰麗的氣質始終來自陳年後帶來的和諧,這瓶1986Calon Segur 比許多90年份感覺還年輕。

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細讀勃艮第(Bourgogne) 葡萄酒 – 辨識酒標

由於勃艮第Bourgogne每個地區裏面有許多村莊,勃艮第的酒標比其他新世界或波爾多酒標稍稍複雜。

大部份酒標我們都可以理解到以下資料:
(1) 生產者名稱: 勃艮第酒莊不以”Chateau”而以”Domaine” 和”Maison”稱呼,這些酒莊大部分都以自己種植的葡萄釀酒。但也有很多酒商(Maison)向葡萄農購買葡萄後再釀酒,例如附圖的Joseph Drouhin或葡萄酒店常見的Louis Jadot、Louis Latour等均是大型的布根地酒商。

(2) 地區/村莊名稱: 勃艮第可分Chablis, Cote de Nuits, Cote de Beaune, Cote Chalonnaise, Maconnais 及Beaujolais等大區,裏面還細緻分為大大小小的村莊和農田,整個布根地地區就已經有100個AOC (Appellations d’Origine Contrôlée)。Chambolle-Musigny 屬於Cote de Nuits之中的村莊。

(3) 年份: 勃艮第紅酒大部分均以Pinot Noir 釀造,在更南部分的Beaujolais則會用上Gamay,葡萄品種比較少所以酒標都不會標示葡萄品種。Pinot Noir 是一種種植難度非常高的葡萄,所以年份對布根地葡萄酒亦非常重要。

(4) 酒精濃度: 勃艮第屬於寒冷氣候,葡萄糖分偏低,所以酒精濃度一般在12.5% – 13.5%之間。

(5) 等級及級別: 主分為四級別,最低為Regional, 依次為Village, Premier Cru及Grand Cru。Premier Cru 佔整個勃艮第產量的10.2%,Grand Cru則佔1.4%。

(6) 容量: 酒標顯示為750ml。

圖為位於布根地酒商Joseph Drouhin 的 Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru 2004 紅葡萄酒,100% Pinot Noir釀造。

細讀勃艮第(Bourgogne) 葡萄酒 – Cremant de Bourgogne

要數地理上最接近香檳的氣泡酒肯定是鄰近的勃艮第,Cremant de Bourgogne AOC 由1975年定立,允許使用Pinot Noir、Chardonnay、Gamay、Pinot Gris、、Melon de Bourgogne、Pinot Blanc 和Sacy 葡萄釀造,製造方法和傳統香檳一樣需在樽內作二次發酵。所使用的葡萄必需有30% 的Pinot Noir、Chardonnay作基酒,以事實上大部分酒莊均主要使用這兩種葡萄和Pinot Blanc釀成Cremant de Bourgogne。

整個勃艮第的葡萄均可用作Cremant de Bourgogne AOC 製造氣泡酒,雖說在土壤和地理和香檳非常近似,但其陳年時間大多只貼近法例所規定的9個月樽內發酵加上3個月瓶內陳年,許多香檳則使用比法例要求的15個月陳年要長,Cremant de Bourgogne 在層次和結構上均與香檳有所分別。雖然許多酒莊都有製造Cremant de Bourgogne,因耗費資源及需要專門技術,部份酒莊會把葡萄或葡萄汁交予專門處理氣泡酒的公司作樽內發酵及標籤。Cremant de Bourgogne 更重於果香,酵母所帶來的味道則相對較輕,種植葡萄的土地因屬寒冷氣候,其酸度依然偏高,適合用作餐前酒或配搭魚生。Cremant de Bourgogne最大的好處 – 在於其價錢普遍港幣一百多左右!