RAW Wine Fair London

剛於上月參加了一個非常啟發性的酒展 – RAW Wine Fair

從直接的意思引申而來 – RAW 意指天然而不經人工加工及程序,而這個酒展集合了達200家追求RAW理念的酒莊,他們相信葡萄酒有生命,需要用最天然的方法種植及釀造才能造出真實表達大自然的葡萄酒,不添加人工添加劑,大部分的產量均不多,有點”Artisan”及”Cult” 的味道。

要符合RAW酒展必需符合以下條件 –

  • Organic或Biodynamic認證
  • 葡萄必需人手採摘
  • 使用天然酵母。人工酵母只可用作氣泡酒二次發酵
  • 不可阻止Malolatic Fermentation
  • 二氧化硫的使用量必需低,每公升不可多於70mg

RAW 當中有來自各地的酒莊,除本土英國之外,法國、意大利、澳洲、西班牙及為數不少的東歐國家,整體質素平庸,但找到許多有趣的葡萄酒。例如開始成為潮流的Orange Wine ,這些介乎紅和白之間的酒經過葡萄皮接觸釀成,豐富口味及有丹寧酸澀的感覺。也有許多沒有經過過濾的葡萄酒,雖看來比較渾濁但卻不失其味道。

一直對有機(Organic)及生物動力自然耕種法(Biodynamic) 心存疑問,這些方法固然是好,而且也對大自然的損害更少,長遠對葡萄園發展有利。許多酒商過度濫用這些名詞作為銷售葡萄酒的賣點,但有機(Organic)及生物動力自然耕種法(Biodynamic)對葡萄酒的質素有否直接關係呢?葡萄酒的品質來自葡萄的質素,而且部分人工的處理也能提升酒的質素,只要對身體無害,更多的後天處理也未必是壞事。

RAW Artisan Wine Fair 引起了公眾談及自然和葡萄酒的關係,也更深入探討有機及生物動力自然耕種法對葡萄酒的影響,希望香港也有機會舉辦這些具特別意義的活動。RAW 是一年一度於倫敦的活動,約下年剛好到倫敦也可多加留意 (http://www.rawfair.com/)!

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