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探索葡萄- Pinot Gris

當你慢慢了解葡萄品種的時候,會否發現許多葡萄品種都從Pinot 開始? Pinot Noir、Pinot Blanc或者Pinot Grigio 都是最流行於酒舖餐廳的種類,也不要忘記Pinot Gris。

Pinot Gris 的中文譯作灰皮諾,是一種紅葡萄品種,名字跟Pinot Grigio有點相似,其實他們同屬一個品種。概括而論,Pinot Grigio普遍使用於意大利、美國及澳洲等地,於酸度較高的時候採收,釀出酒體、酒精濃度低以及結構簡單的白酒,Pinot Grigio的清爽口感非常適合炎熱天氣,配搭上海鮮、炸物或白汁意粉享用。Pinot Gris 更在乎其結構,於法國Alsace,其法定酒精濃度必需有12.5度以上,許多也維持13-13.5%之間。

Pinot Gris 普遍帶有啤梨、蘋果、蜜瓜、芒果及花香的味道,酒精濃度高,而且有一種特有的油膩感,明顯的酸度能平衡整體的架構,於世界各地的平均質素也頗高(買Chardonnay或Sauvignon Blanc而失望的人肯定比Pinot Gris多)。除法國Alsace 之外,德國(稱為Grauburgunder)、紐西蘭、加拿大也有很出色的白酒。另外,也有許多Pinot Gris 釀成的貴腐酒,除蜜糖香氣之外也帶有辛辣香料的味道。與Pinot Grigio相比,Pinot Grigio是沒大期望也不會失望,能配搭許多食物的白酒,Pinot Gris 則更有個性,能令你慢慢欣賞細味的作品。

Pinot Gris酒體豐富,有力量配合白肉,可配搭燒烤或燉的家禽或豬肉,杭州菜多用的浙江醋也能與Alsace Pinot Gris的酸度平衡,有機會絕對可以一試。

A Wine dinner fit for a Spanish King

Kerry Wines 將聯同大平山餐廳舉辦一場葡萄酒晚宴,六道菜晚宴將配合西班牙Artevino集團的葡萄酒,當中包括於西班牙費利佩六世國王加冕典禮上享用過的葡萄酒,也有被Robert Parker 譽為可與Vega Sicilia媲美的Pruno 2012 Finca Villacreces D.O. Ribera Del Duero,整晚將有7款葡萄酒品嚐。詳細資料:

日期: 4 March 2015 (星期三)
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2015 年注目! 5個必試獨特產區葡萄酒 – (4) 法國西南部Midi-Pyrénées

Bordeaux Bourgogne Barolo Brunello Rioja Napa 你還會挑什麼? 生於香港的其中一個福份還是太多葡萄酒可以選! 2015年不如找點新穎產區學習一下。

選擇法國西南部Midi-Pyrénées為其中一個獨特產區,因為今年法國食品協會舉辦的”法國五月”將以西南部MIDI-PYRÉNÉES 的食物同酒類作主題,屆時全港將有許多機會品嚐Midi-Pyrénées的葡萄酒。

Midi-Pyrénées 實為法國第二大農產區,除肉類、家禽、芝士外亦有著名的Bayonne風乾火腿。除多樣化的葡萄酒外,不得不提另一個拔蘭地法定產區Armagnac。跟Cognac 不同的是,Armagnac的蒸餾廠規模較少,蒸餾方式跟Cognac 不同,而且大多會標上年份,而且酒精較高。

葡萄酒方面,Midi-Pyrénées有許多法定釀造產區,當中你會發現去多法國釀造歷史悠久的本土葡萄,當中也有許多拓展到海外成為新世界的出色品種。例如Cahors 的Malbec 及Madiran的Tannat,Malbec 成為了阿根庭馳名世界的品種,Tannat也在烏拉圭流行起來。

Cahors區的Malbec紅葡萄酒酒體強勁,偏向葡萄乾及煙草味道。Madiran區的Tannat紅葡萄酒亦有強勁的酒體,丹寧及酒精均非常高,配合橡木捅及陳年會帶出甚為特別的風味。兩款葡萄的鋒芒雖比Cabernet Sauvignon、Merlot及Piont Noir 蓋過,但Malbec 及Tannat 也能釀出具味道及層次豐富且相當具陳年潛力的出色作品。

另外,也可多留意Côtes de Gascogne 及Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh兩個產區釀造的甜酒,跟Sauternes 區不同的選用了Petit Manseng 及 Gros Manseng兩種葡萄,酸度較Sauternes的貴腐酒低,價錢相比亦較便宜,配合鵝肝及甜品已非常滿足!

準備今年5月品嚐法國西南部葡萄酒之前,一起學懂Midi-Pyrénées讀音 –

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Beyond Bubbles: The Essence of Champagne









No one would oppose that Champagnes are one of the most beautifully invented beverage in the world. In a glass of this finest beverage, 20 million bubbles give its lively and dynamic characters. The flow of bubbles also contributes to the distinct tastes and aromas to drinkers all over the world. Beyond bubbles, what makes Champagne so fascinating that worth every Wine Connoisseur to study?


champagne region

The unique terroir

Expressing the place of the grapes grown comes to be important for most of the Champenois, while “Terroir” maybe overused by the wine marketers nowadays. No matter it is made by a grower or by house, a single-vineyard or a blended one from all sub-regions in Champagne, all Champagnes are made to express the uniqueness given by its soil, climate and micro-climate.

We can find totally different terroirs among the sub-regions. For instance, Côte des Blancs lies on chalk where best Chardonnay grows, Montagne de Reims has deep bed of chalk which suits Pinot Noir, the Marne Valley containing more marls, sand or clay where wine growers put in Pinot Meunier. Different villages are having its distinct terroir which builds Champagne its unique identity. Luckily, there are more single-vineyard Champagnes to be made today, it is an expressway to learn about the cru however not to underestimate that blended champagnes are also expressing the terroir in one. Simply explaining, it is like driving your car and looking into the vineyard or taking a helicopter appreciating the region in a whole – both worth appreciating.



Méthode Champenoise

It is mistakenly made in the past, Champagne goes through second fermentation in bottles. With the reaction by yeast, carbon dioxide is formed and dissolves into the wine. There are sparkling wines made by the same traditional method in the world, however Champagne mark its place with lees aging, which gives autolysis notes such as yeast, biscuit, toast, gingerbread and smokiness. It is said that these flavors contribute to the complexity of Champagne, and lees as a preservative, also makes Champagne a long-lived wine than most other bubbles in the world. There is no formula to be the best lees aging period and it is the Champagne makers’ decision for different wines. Legally, the minimum aging period is 18 months and for vintage champagne, that would be 30 months. Many Champagnes are aged longer than legal requirements and some of the finest are kept with lees for over 10 years. The best ones would maintain a balance between rich autolytic aromas and complex fruit flavors. They are usually lengthy and complex with spectacular aging potential.



Diversified styles

“Champagne” is not an identical product. It is not only giving you bubbles. In the region you could find talented and experienced winemakers using their techniques to produce diversified styles of Champagne which could not be found elsewhere.

In fermentation, oak barrels benefit the complexity with oak, smoky and vanilla flavors. Lees aging period affects the autolysis flavors and the freshness of the finalized product.

In varieties, most of the Champagne is blended with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Pinot Noir adds the backbone and body; Pinot Meunier makes the roundness and produce fruitiness; Chardonnay contributes to the delicacy and minerality of wine. Blanc de Blanc is made with white grape varieties, mainly Chardonnay (Also, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Petit Meslier and Arbane are permitted by law). Blanc de Noir is made with either Pinot Noir or Pinot Meunier, or a blend of both.

Going into sweetness, dosage made with sugar will be added into the Champagne after disgorgement which produces different styles to the wine. Lesser dosage such as Brut Nature and Extra Brut gives sharp acidity and expresses the authentic grape flavors. Small amount of dosage such as Brut and Extra-Sec makes it more rounded and complete.


It is the common goal of 400 houses and 15,000 growers – Champagne is not merely a drink for celebration. Champagne is an endless journey to explore in grape varieties, vintages, dosage and ways of maturation. Not only is it a food-friendly wine, but as well a masterpiece that could improve for decades.


Sources of photos:


意大利Tagliata 牛柳

情人節最熱門而且公式化活動當然是回家煮牛扒飲紅酒,如果要避免心型牛扒而想為這”沉悶” 活動中添些新意,不妨用上全新方法烹調牛扒 -意大利Tagliata!意大利Tagliata 一般都會把牛扒烤成偏生(約三成) 伴上火箭菜及車厘茄享用,火箭菜及黑醋能中和牛扒的油膩感,而且為牛扒味道加上層次,令整個菜式更為完美。

關於配酒,考慮上牛柳柔軟的質感而且牛扒也有豐富肉汁,可配上意大利Chianti Classico 或法國Loire Valley 的紅酒。意大利Chianti Classico 屬意大利中部Tascany 的著名產區,選上Chianti Classico主要因為整個Chianti 質素水準參差,Chianti Classico的產區較細而且水準較能依靠,當然找到”Reserva” 字眼代表葡萄酒經過更長時間陳年於橡木捅或整體質素較佳,價錢也更高! Chianti Classico均以100% 或 佔大多數的Sangiovese 葡萄釀製,有豐富的紅苺及紅果香,明顯的酸度故能配上以油醋汁伴成的Tagliata 牛柳。選擇法國Loire Valley的原因則因大部分Loire Valley紅酒均以Cabernet Franc 釀製,除擁有紅果及花香之外也有青草的感覺,能配合火箭菜的味道。

材料 (兩人分量)

  • 牛柳約16安士
  • 火箭菜 (適量)
  • 車厘茄 (半磅)
  • 橄欖油
  • 意大利黑醋
  • 牛油
  • 海鹽
  • 黑椒


  • 建議購買質感柔軟而且適合3成熟的牛柳,室溫下解凍約2小時
  • 把火箭菜及車厘茄用清水沖洗
  • 用平底鑊或橫炆鑊,加入牛油,用上中火
  • 放上牛柳,用中火每面煎一分鐘 (如沒有焗爐則每面煎兩分鐘)
  • 把牛柳放入焗爐,220度下焗兩分鐘
  • 同時車厘茄放上橫炆鑊輕煎兩分鐘
  • 把火箭菜伴上橄欖油及意大利黑醋
  • 從焗爐取出牛柳切片,再伴上火箭菜及車厘茄

(還可加上切成薄片的Pamesan 芝士伴上牛柳)

2015 年注目! 5個必試獨特產區葡萄酒 – (3) 保加利亞紅酒

Bordeaux Bourgogne Barolo Brunello Rioja Napa 你還會挑什麼? 生於香港的其中一個福份還是太多葡萄酒可以選! 2015年不如找點新穎產區學習一下。

位於東歐的保加利亞與匈牙利及格魯吉亞一樣均有著悠久的釀造歷史。但保加利亞卻未能像匈牙利般在葡萄酒消費者中留下深刻印象(匈牙利有非常著名的貴腐甜酒Tokaji),雖種植著一些本土葡萄,但大多酒莊均專注釀造國際普遍的葡萄如Cabernet Sauvignon、Merlot、Chardonnay、Pinot Noir、Syrah等,英國是其中一個最大入口國,大部分都是價值及質素偏低的產品。

細心發掘,保加利亞也有比其他大國超值的葡萄酒! 其中香港能夠找到的是Bessa Valley一系列的紅酒,近年由法國著名酒商Stephan von Neipperg投資,為這酒莊提供了許多波爾多的風格及技術。Bessa Valley主要以Cabernet Sauvignon、Merlot 及Syrah 單一及混合釀製而成。整體像混合了波爾多的風格但擁有更多成熟水果的味道,其中Eniva Merlot一開瓶已經擁有非常豐富突出的成熟紅果味道,香草及木桶與果味大致均衡,唯酸度稍嫌不足平衡及收結帶出過多的甜味。但以一瓶售價港幣百多元的葡萄酒實屬既有新意又超值。另外鄰近土耳其的Terra Tangra酒莊使用有機方法種植葡萄,近年質素也在冒升,但暫時未見香港有售。

圖片來源: 保加利亞Bessa Valley 酒莊(

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