2015 年注目! 5個必試獨特產區葡萄酒 – (2) 奧地利Blaufränkisch 紅酒

Bordeaux Bourgogne Barolo Brunello Rioja Napa 你還會挑什麼? 生於香港的其中一個福份還是太多葡萄酒可以選! 2015年不如找點新穎產區學習一下。

從日本返回舊世界的歐洲,你也該找機會試試奧地利Blaufränkisch紅葡萄酒。

奧地利除了白酒獲得世界廣泛認可之外,當中紅葡萄也有Zweigelt 及Blaufränkisch這兩種本地特色葡萄。Zweigelt 是St. Laurent 及Blaufränkisch兩種紅葡萄一起培植的品種,屬奧地利最種植範圍中多的紅葡萄。Blaufränkisch 種植範圍雖只有Zweigelt約一半,以Mittelburgenland 地區出產質素平均較優勝。另外,Blaufränkisch也於德國及美國種植,及稱為Lemberger 或Limberger。

明顯的酸性是這葡萄的特色,有許多人會形容Blaufränkisch 是Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo 及Syrah 的混合體,得天獨厚帶出Pinot Noir 的細膩及紅果味道、卻擁有Nebbiolo 的強勁丹寧及Syrah 的香料特性。年輕的時候帶有中等的酒體、新鮮藍莓及紅色莓類果香,待陳年過後則帶有礦物味之外也有明顯的酸性。整體而言,Blaufränkisch的陳年潛力頗高,一般也適合等待5-8年後享用讓其真正散發這葡萄的力量。一般Blaufränkisch不會經過過長時間的橡木桶處理也只會用上輕烤及大容量的橡木桶,以免蓋過這葡萄的果味。

Blaufränkisch 平均質素頗高,該不會令你失望!

2015 年注目! 5個必試獨特產區葡萄酒 – (1) 日本甲州葡萄白酒

Bordeaux Bourgogne Barolo Brunello Rioja Napa 你還會挑什麼? 生於香港的其中一個福份還是太多葡萄酒可以選! 2015年不如找點新穎產區學習一下。

曾到過日本搜尋其國產葡萄酒,發現許多便利店把紅酒放在跟汽水果汁同架的冰箱裡頭,沒有年份,打開是一杯杯甜而像葡萄汁的飲品…

近年日本威士忌非常流行,而部分日本釀造的葡萄酒也開始讓人耳目一新。上年的Decanter Asia Wine Awards日本釀造葡萄酒讓人驚喜地奪得7個獎項,而日本甲州白酒的名字漸漸在國際上受注目。日本本身的氣候環境並非種植葡萄的優良地點,當中山梨縣甲州地區屬盆地,有乾燥的氣候及陽光充沛。這裡也種植了日本的本土葡萄 – 甲州(Koshu)。釀造白葡萄酒的甲州葡萄卻擁有粉紅色的表皮,釀造的白葡萄酒一般比較中和,擁有檸檬、蜜桃和西柚的果味,部分酒莊也會延長其酵母發酵時間以賦予這些白葡萄酒酵母的味道,豐富架構。不過,大部分甲州白葡萄酒均是平易近人賦予人清新舒暢感覺的白酒,也因為這樣的味道,許多人屬意他配搭日本菜的壽司及天婦羅菜式。若要搜尋出色的酒莊,也可從Château Mercian及Grace Wine 出發。

要擴闊自己對葡萄酒的體驗,不如先從日本甲州葡萄白酒開始!

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香檳的陳年力量

也許很多人忽略了香檳的陳年潛力 – 香檳的酸性及特殊的保存條件令其陳年潛力甚至比去多紅葡萄酒更為優勝。香檳經過多年後,當中的二氧化碳會緩慢的洩漏出來,令其氣泡慢慢消失。但只要保存條件恰當,質素優秀的香檳會發展出比常有的檸檬皮、青檸、餅乾、烘烤味道更為豐富的味道。

剛品嚐過屬其中一家歷史最悠久的香檳品牌Pommery 1991,經過23年的陳年後,雖氣泡數量減少而且並沒那麼活躍,但香氣發展出除成熟檸檬、橙皮等果香外更多的堅果、杏仁及蜜糖的味道,並不能夠在Non-vintage 或新年份的香檳中找到。

除Pommery 1991之外,品嚐過的Piper Heidsieck rare 2002以及Lanson 1988、1978均從不讓人失望過。 若家裡有年份的香檳也不妨讓他繼續陳年,感受其時間帶來獨有的變化。

Caviar x Champagne Indulgence

以稀有魚子提煉成的面部護理,配搭上魚子醬及香檳,將會是怎麼美妙的體驗?

不曾是魚子醬的擁躉,多年前品嚐過俄羅斯的鱘魚魚子醬感覺其鹹味掩蓋了魚卵的味道,唯俄羅斯及伊朗生產的上等魚子醬佔全世界市場的95%,這次品嚐的法國培植及製造的Caviar de Neuvic 位於靠近波爾多的阿基坦,以保護生態環境的方法養植鱘魚,相比先前試過的鱘魚魚子醬,Caviar de Neuvic的鹽分較少,鱘魚魚子的獨特鮮味更濃郁。

 

Caviar de Neuvic 的魚子醬除可配搭傳統Vodka 烈酒外,細膩的香檳也是另一個美妙配合:

photo 3_副本

Champagne Delamotte Blanc de Blancs NV
與偉大的Champagne Salon屬姊妹酒莊,先前品嚐過Champagne Delamotte的香檳許多次也從沒有失望過。Champagne Delamotte Blanc de Blancs NV 使用100% Grand Cru 級別的Chardonnay,而且只使用10% reserve wine (酒莊為了保持穩定的質素會儲備reserve wine混釀) 用以突出Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger 及Cramant三個Grand Cru 田園的特色。

photo 4_副本

Champagne Bereche Et Fils Reflet D’Antan
Growers Champagne 近年受歡迎程度上升不少,主要是這些自己擁有葡萄園的農民(或該稱釀酒家) 有更大自由度以他們的知識及智慧釀造更具地方特色的香檳,Bereche Et Fils釀造Reflet D’Antan的方法也也罕有的Solera 木桶調配,二次發酵也以木塞而不是用類似啤酒蓋的蓋子封口,他們深信以木塞封存可以讓微量的氧氣加入令氣泡更為纖細綿密。單從香氣已感受到這香檳架構的壯大,除果香及酵母帶來的麵包和餅乾味道外,還添加了溫和的木桶味道,令整個品味體驗更為豐富複雜。

 

photo 5_副本

BEDEL Francoise Comme Autrefois 2000
香檳區內較少有推動全面Biodynamics方法釀酒的酒莊,以橡木桶作第一次發酵並而木塞為二次發酵的封口並且陳年十年以上。以70% Pinot Meunier 及30% Chardonnay的葡萄釀造讓整體結構更為壯大,並且具有大部分香檳達不到的悠長餘韻。

Champagne Savart, L’Ouverture Brut 1er Cru
Champagne Savart L’Ouverture 以100% Pinot Noir 釀造,令其結構更為豐富,也為此香檳提供了紅莓及啤梨的香氣,年產量也僅有約1700箱。

魚子醬及香檳無可否認是最佳的天作之合,如添加上魚子精華面部護理又會是怎樣的感覺?

詳情查詢: Pavillon Medspa 1503-06 Heng Seng TST Building 18 Carnavon Road, TST, Hong Kong +852 3464 0542

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