魚類和葡萄酒搭配

許多人只記得”紅肉配紅、白肉配白”的道理,於香港輕易購買到食到的魚類和葡萄酒又怎麼能搭配起來?

(1) 魚肉的顏色
從魚肉的顏色大概能估計到其味道。
大部分白身魚均味道偏淡,質感較輕盈,適合配搭結構較簡單的白葡萄酒或汽酒,例如意大利的Albariño、法國Alsace的Pinot Blanc 或Burgundy 的Aligoté 白酒,紅葡萄酒配搭之下可能突顯其魚腥味道,效果更差。
橙色的三文魚有種厚重的感覺,而且脂肪含量高,適合配搭味道更直接豐富的新世界白葡萄酒,若配搭煮至全熟的三文魚更可考慮用Pinot Noir 或Gamay葡萄釀的紅酒,法國Burgundy 的Pinot Noir 或Beaujolais 的Gamay 也可 。
而紅色的吞拿魚則有濃厚的肉味,經烹調煮熟過後的吞拿魚多欠缺脂肪,感覺有點像雞/豬肉,可考慮用經橡木桶豐富層次的白葡萄酒例如美國Napa Valley Chardonnay 或波爾多Graves 的白葡萄酒。

(2) 魚種的脂肪
魚的脂肪也是考慮用什麼葡萄酒配搭的因素。脂肪越多,越需要用結構更大的葡萄酒平衡起來,白身的銀鱈魚脂肪含量其實也高,但因多不需要用濃厚醬汁作烹調,可考慮配搭味道直接但豐富的新世界Sauvignon Blanc 或Chardonnay。三文魚一般脂肪含量豐富,若選配的白葡萄酒太單調則會被魚蓋過葡萄酒。

(3) 烹調的醬汁
其實是最重要的考慮條件! 除非是日式的刺身或壽司,大部分魚類的烹調方法均直接影響了其味道,也就是要考慮用什麼類型葡萄酒配合了。例如經檸檬牛油醬汁煮成的龍可選配微甜的Muscat 或具荔枝果香的Gewürztraminer 白酒; 烤三文魚則可選配大部分中等酒體的白酒; 而圖中的山賊汁比目魚, 山賊汁味道濃郁,比目魚脂肪含量也高,紐西蘭Marlborough的Riesling 具中等酒體,擁有豐富的青提、0者喱及青檸味道,令其比目魚洗去其油膩感,感覺更舒適清新。如果你想到中式的清蒸魚…香檳或汽酒會是好選擇。

Dynasty Dry Red Wine 1999

人民幣68一瓶的葡萄酒首先別有任何其中,而其1999並非年份的意思,所以別期望有任何驚喜… 12% 酒精度,打開的確有淡淡的紅葡萄酒味,形容不上其他味道了…整體像一支有酒精的葡萄汁,相信製造過程經人工化添加許多後期色素及調味,有興趣感受加工葡萄酒又不怕影響身體可以一試。
購買地點: 深圳Aeon超市 (Dynasty Dry Red Wine 1999 – RMB68/瓶)

Chateau Boutisse Saint Emilion Grand Cru 2006

其實2006年份品嚐過也寫過了,但這次在品嚐卻有不一樣的體驗…

曾品嚐過Chateau Boutisse 數個年份(2004, 2006 及2011),認為這個是水準不穩定的酒莊,2004年份質素不佳,結構簡單得像普通的法國AOC波爾多葡萄酒; 2011年的則回到波爾多右岸Grand Cru 級別水準卻欠缺大驚喜; 而這支2006年則是最優勝的年份。這支2006年份最標誌是經8年陳年後帶予的力量,香氣上充滿紅果、乾果、泥土及動物的味道,入口丹寧感覺柔軟舒適,入口的味道與氣味一致。餘韻之後,有一種遇到葡萄酒達到最佳適用期的感動。也證明購買葡萄酒不一定需要花費大筆金錢,只要找到適合的葡萄酒,你就能獲取其適度陳年的價值。

Saint Emilion Grand Cru 與 Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe 級數不同,前者只需達到一定亦要求就能在其酒標標上” Saint Emilion Grand Cru ,其質素差異甚大,當中也能有像這支Chateau Boutisse 2006 般有驚喜,但市場也潛伏著售價不低但質素一般的葡萄酒,值得多加留意。

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Walter Hansel Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2011

Russian River Valley 位於美國加州Sonoma ,受太西洋氣流影響,屬美國釀酒區其中一個相對寒冷的產區,當中以其Pinot Noir 及Chardonnay著名。Walter Hansel Russian River Valley Pinot Noir 2011 剛開瓶已散發複雜的紅色水果香氣,如覆盆子、红莓、石榴及乾李子的香氣。酒體屬中上,入口後持續其複雜的紅果香氣,亦帶予乾果、森林及泥土的氣色。整體架構均衡於果香及細膩但鞏固的丹寧中。非常優秀的美國Pinot Noir!

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